Installation Guide

Part 1Preparing your Garden

1  Remove all the grass sod and any existing grass/vegetation.

Ensuring the remaining layer of soil is left level as possible.
  • Before starting let rain-soaked soil dry for a few days before you excavate, to prevent a poor base.
  • While the remaining surface doesn’t need to be perfectly graded, walk over it or use a hand tamp to compact any obviously loose soil. A slight slope is recommended to improve drainage.

Part 2Installing the Base

1 Add the base material.

Purchase fine crushed blinding stone with particles under 20mm.Fill the excavated area with 100mm of this material. You’ll need approximately 1 ton of material for each 5m2 of lawn area to be covered

  • You may need to increase the depth in areas to fill any dips or hollows to ensure your finished surface is nice and smooth.
  • If installing the lawn over concrete or another hard surface, ensure there are no sharp level changes as this may eventually show through the grass when complete. A rubber shock pad or self-leveling compound can help remove therese. Alternatively, you can skip this step if you are certain the existing surface has adequate drainage and that you can completely cover the edge with the artificial grass.

2  Grade the base.

Level with a steel rake and ensure there are no heights or hollows.

  • For improved drainage use a spirit level to ensure a slight slop in one or more directions sloping down to the edge.
  • TIP. A long straight piece of 3×2 timber can be used as a good straight edge to screed the stone before compacting to ensure the base is level.

  • 3  Moisten and compact the base.

    Sprinkle the gravel lightly if it is completely dry with a garden hose to lubricate the particles in preparation for compaction. Use a vibrating plate to compact the material into a sturdy base, reducing it to 90% or less. This will likely require several passes back and forth over the area. Repeat step 2 above until you are happy with the levels and the surface is smooth. Make sure the base levels are where required around the perimeter to tie into other surrounding landscaping. If required add or remove to the base and compact again

    Roll out the Artificial Grass

    Unroll the artificial turf, as it may take a couple hours to recover its shape after being transported in rolls.


    Install Simply Grass interlocking shockpad to create a cushioned artificial lawn/safety surface.

  • TIP. This also helps smooth the base, gives and even better finish.

  • Part 3Installing the Lawn

    1  Lay out the Artificial Grass where it is required

    Measure the Length and witdth where the lawn will be laid out. With a partner, stretch out each strip of artificial grass required and lay it down over the prepared base. Avoid dragging the artificial grass over the base, or you may disturb the smooth stone surface.

    • In all artificial turf, the fake grass blades slope in one direction more than another. Make sure all the turf is installed with the blades pointing in the same direction, or it will create the visual effect of having a different colour.

    Seam the artificial grass strips together.

    • Line up the two strips close together, so there is a 1-3mm gap between the black backing material. (Where appropriate ensure the edging material from manufacture is trimmed of tight along the edge of the stiching with a Stanley knife).
    • Fold approx: 300-500mm of the edges back and lay Simply Grass joinintg tape on the exposed base (rough side up).
    • Cover the seaming material with Simply Grass adhesive (1tube cover approx. 4 linear metres), then fold the strips back down over the seaming tape and let dry. N.B. ensure the glue is within 100mm of each edge of where the two strips of artificial grass meet.
    • Ensure the glue remains in a bead approx. 3mm deep – to ensure the glue penetrates in between the stitching of the artificial grass.
    • If 2 pac artificial gass is being used, ensure it is mixed well and spread it with a toothed spatula.
    • Place weight along the joints to ensure a good bond, and leave for approx. 4-6 hours to cure.

    Get a carpet stretcher (optional).

    For best results, use a carpet stretcher to stretch the turf strips just before you seam or fasten them, as described below. Press the stretcher flat against the turf with the bristles facing down, and kick the padded end firmly with your knee. Stretching the turf eliminates wrinkles, reduces expansion from heat, and helps secure the surface tightly to the ground.

    • This tool is also called a carpet kicker.

    4 Cut the turf where necessary.

    Use a carpet cutter or Stanley knife to cut the underside of the turf whenever required by the shape of the project area.

    • When making long cuts, cut short distances at a time and compare to the edge to make sure there are no significant gaps. Drawing the cut line onto the back with a marker may also help.

    Fasten the turf perimeter.

    Use 6 inch (150mm) galvanized nails or landscaping anchor pins to fasten the turf around the perimeter, at 6 inch (150 mm) intervals. Hammer them flat, but avoid excessive hammering, which can cause dips in the lawn.

    • For maximum strength, offset the stakes on opposite sides, rather than using two lines of stakes exactly opposite each other.

    Add Simply Grass washed & Dried Silica sand infill.

    All artificial turf requires added infill particles to prevent wrinkles appearing through time, to weigh the grass down, and provide cushioning. While the lawn is completely dry, apply approx 7-10kg of dried silica sand, by using a small garden fertiliser spreader. Rake in each layer with a light plastic garden rake or stiff yard brush to smooth it out. Repeat untill approx. 7-10mm of sand is installed (being careful not to overfill and bury the artificial thatch fibres.

    Water the lawn.

    This will help the infill or ballast settle. Check the material the next day to see the final result. If the lawn isn’t bouncy enough or too much of each grass blade is exposed, rake in another layer of infill.

    • Optionally, use a leaf-blower to clear debris from the surface once finished.